It certainly would not be the dining capital of the world without Monsieur Robuchon enlivening the palates of New Yorkers. The superstar chef’s much anticipated restaurant is now flourishing amidst the background banter from the bar at the Four Seasons hotel. I, for one, admit to already having a bad habit on hand and expect more trips to midtown this year than last for the ethereal, decadent experience of dining at the counter on sea urchin in lobster gelee with a topping of cauliflower cream, served in an egg-shaped glass with gold-leafing, and spaghetti with black truffle shavings and parmesan. Though polished and clean, the dining room itself is lacking in intrigue, as were the desserts that I sampled: the baba au rhum and the chestnut croquettes. The inventive menu and mouthwatering savory selections, however, make up for anything not as brilliant, in both their execution and imagination. An excellent restaurant of this kind with emphasis on experimentation and small plates presents itself as the perfect venue for half bottles of wine, and though there currently aren’t any available on the list, I am hoping that on my next visit there will be…..in the meantime, I can still taste that bottle of ‘02 Santenay.
Richer than though: a bed of black truffle shavings over pasta
