Come Autumn in New York there are dozens of restaurants opening alongside newly opened restaurants perfecting their role in the culinary landscape. French wine bar, Solex, in the East Village has recently redesigned its menu to emphasize the role of the “pizzette”. Italian sandwich is to panini what French pizza is to pizzette. And there is noone in the city serving up pies like these from a blazing brick oven. Nestled onto perfectly crisp layers of dough are toppings such as, carmelized onion, (pictured below), escargot-parsley-garlic, tomato, raclette, and mushroom. Minimalist menu descriptors conceal the intricacies of flavor in each one.
Not to be overlooked are the other small dishes on the menu, especially the golf-ball size gougeres. Popover-like, these doughy, eggy, savory creations encrusted with a baked layer of gruyere are ethereal. The steak tartare, dosed heavy with worcestershire and served alongside frites with a mysterious curry-sugar dust, also comes in strong. The merging of a sharp, sleek space serving humble, comforting plates of sweet and salty creations and terroir-driven wines will capture the hearts of Francophiles and Francophobes alike.
