Walking down the narrow stretch of Cleveland Place where Kenmare and Lafayette intersect and form a triangle – which will hopefully one day morph into a miniature park – it would be quite easy to walk right past Veloce Club. Its neighbor, Eileen’s Cheesecake, speaks loudly while Veloce Club remains suave and cool, a modest and decidedly fresh welcoming in an otherwise barren desert, save from what Serge Becker’s team serves up cold at La Esquina and Select. As those who’ve watched the metamorphosis of this space over the past five years can attest, it has had a wealth of personalities: a wine bar, a crudo bar, a sushi joint, and a dessert bar. In its latest incarnation its identity has been realized (for now) and it finally feels comfortable in its own skin. The sophisticated, classic and relaxed atmosphere of the King Cole or Bemelmans is ever present, though the drinks and the trademark Veloce panini and tramezzini don’t come at uptown prices, and there are the tell-tale reminders of downtown edge, namely the vintage Vespa parked inside and modern art painting of George Washington. The cocktails are classic favorites: the Negroni, the Manhattan and the Whiskey Sour to name a few, and are perfectly correct and delicious and a harbinger to hours of conversation in the soft leather booths. Veloce Club reminds us that as the evening cocktail hour beckons why overthink what has been tried and tested over the years and has come out winning: time-honored cocktail recipes, jazz, cheese sandwiches and tailored service. Bellissimo.
