Uptown “Word of Mouth”

Image courtesy of A Voce Columbus

Boasting a light-flooded interior, this sleek and handsome twin to A Voce Madison, which was previously home to Cafe Gray, commands attention. And rightfully so. Italophile chef Missy Robbins, most recently of the celebrated restaurant Spiaggia in Chicago, has come to NY to steer the A Voce ship and offer tasteful, “refined rustic” Italian to compliment the thoughtfully selected wine list by the charismatic and talented Olivier Flosse. The re-design of the space (also by David Rockwell) has repositioned the kitchen to allow for more expansive views of Central Park, as well as included a small private room dubbed La Tavola, enclosed behind panels of wine racks, and a private event space which can seat up to 66. It’s sophisticated and lean, and though thoughts of a modern conference room space may creep up as you sit back in your cream-colored Eames chair, hopefully they will soon dissipate upon delving into a dish of Spaghetti alla Chitarra: hand-made spaghetti with crab, leeks, lemon and sea urchin butter.

Charm + Substance at Tavern

Suzanne Goin’s latest addition to her Los Angeles restaurant empire takes shape at the Brentwood market/cafe/restaurant, Tavern. Matte earthy tones bring homey comforts to the space, which upon entering begins as a bakery-cafe then segues into a dressed up bar, before leading into the dining room, an atrium meets living room with upholstered chairs, a carpeted floor, and stylistic touches reminiscent of a muted Kelly Wearstler design. During the day, sunrays stream through the glassed-in ceiling, offering an airy garden-like feel to the room, further accented by the olive tree holding court in the center. The pictures below are testimony to the natural light flooding the space as each white plate glistens and even the hamburger bun shines.

Goin and her team have mastered Cal-French cuisine, incorporating classical technique into timeless international dishes while using a light, inspired hand to let the seasonal market produce make a statement. The tastes are balanced and undeniably fresh. We started with a beautiful smoked fish platter with juicy beefsteak heirloom tomatoes accompanied by rye toast baked in-house, followed by a Cobb salad of sorts and a fantastic burger, juicy and dressed with pungent fontina, and a side of crispy fries with herbed mayo. My citrusey, medium-bodied Hop Ottin IPA from Anderson Valley was the perfect “tavern” pairing, though I was first tempted by the very nice selection of wines by the glass to wash it down. We thought we’d curb our gluttony by ordering the Pecan Sticky Bun without Bacon (considering we already had the glorious pork product in our salad) but loved the inventive option in the sweet pastry. Though well-satiated after lunch, I wandered back to the market and browsed the various olive oils, safrron and spices as well as the giant chocolate chip cookies, questioning whether I might have room for one “to go,” before I caught glimpse of the man making homemade gnocchi behind the glass peep window. Truly a feast for the senses!

Smoked Fish Platter

Pecan Sticky Bun

Niman Ranch burger with Fontina