
On more than several occasions, I have been asked by friends to join for dinner during their mother’s visit to NY. And on more than several occasions the preferred restaurant of choice is Gramercy Tavern. I never hesitate for a moment before confirming it’s a great idea and that their mother (even if I haven’t yet met her) will assuredly like it. On a blistery Sunday eve in December, early eve, this is where I happily found myself, beginning at the bar amongst a vivacious crowd, candied pecans, and a glass of perfectly complex ‘96 Berres, Auslese Riesling from the Mosel.
The immediate environ offered homey comforts and smells, a faint cloud of honey and sauteed shallots reminiscent of mandatory Sunday night family supper, with a subtle breeze of Manhattan sophistication to perk the senses. If my company wasn’t so delightful, I might have lost myself in the wine list longer, drifting off to Hungary for the Kiralyudvar Tokaji Sec before cruising back stateside to Napa for Sine Qua Non Grenache, but promptly selected a medium-body Northern Italian Lagrein and began feasting my eyes upon the menu with a serious appetite for the hearty and wholesome dishes one only craves in the brisk of winter.
What is to love, amongst many things, is the way each dish reads (and delivers) as an uplifted, inspired classic, a creation beginning from the traditional and further embellished with the most complimentary and essential accessories: parsnip soup with romanesco, calamari and carrot salad with preserved lemon dressing, toasted heirloom cauliflower alongside almonds, capers and lemons. Satiating and healthful, not overly fussed – dishes infact, that Mom would dress the table with family-style, lovingly and proudly. The entrees were the stars of the evening, notably the the arctic char (pictured) cooked to a turn and suggestive of the prettiest and most delicate peach rose, and the house-made smoked kielbasa with sauerkraut and grain mustard, as juicy and flavorful as if hailing from the farm down the road. We all concurred that apple pie would be the most fitting finale for this occasion and my dining partners went as far as to order the hot chocolate topped with whipped cream and served with a cinnamon stick stirrer. When there is no place to go and it feels like home, this is seemingly quite a natural choice.